Along with large embroideries (suzane wall hangings, converts, towels and carpets), smaller embroidered articles such as bags, cases and handbags occupied a considerable place in everyday life of people of Uzbekistan. The latter were used for keeping salt, tea, various kitchen utensils, tableware and mirrors. It was believed that mirrors could not be open lest they should reflect a genie, a fantastical being capable of doing harm. Hung in various parts of house or a yurt, these bags, cases and handbags became a colorful part of its interior.
The popularity of embroideries is explained not only by the place they occupied in interior of dwellings also by the historical traditions and rites. Embroideries were generally made for weddings by the bride's family and constituted a mandatory part of her dowry. Women expressed their dreams of happy future in their embroideries.
Embroideries fulfilled certain ritual, magic and protective functions. Each element had a certain meaning.
Vegetative patterns
Compositions created from vegetative patterns such as wild and cultivated flowers, herbs, etc. are diverse in their sizes and destiny creating different movements, rhythms and turns. Embroideries usually contained those plants that, along with their decorative meaning, possessed some healing power and were used for treating various illness.
Flowers
The most frequently embroidered flowers were roses, irises, carnations, tulips, and apple-tree bosoms among others. The most frequently embroidered fruits and vegetables were pomegranates, cherries, almonds, peppers. One of the popular flowers looks like something very close to a tulip or a lily; a flower with similar shape can be often seen in ancient works of art. It is one of attributes of Anahita, the Goddess of fertility.
It is known from history that flower festivals were celebrated in Uzbekistan in past. They were connected with the blossoming of certain plants and reflected in embroideries. However, the prototypes were changed by fantasy of the embroiderer every time. Vegetative patterns were stylized but details of flowers were always thoroughly elaborated.
Leaves in vegetative patterns can be of several shapes, namely, oval, serrate like lilac’s leaves, trefoil and cinquefoil, long ''fishbone'' leaves serrate on one side. Garlands of leaves and rosettes are also widely used. A wavy stem of the bindweed signified wealth and vitality. It can assumed that vegetative patterns often conceal pre-Islamic motives; for instance, round patterns possibly reflect ancient astral conceptions.
Almonds
Almond-shaped motives called ‘bodom’ in Uzbekistan symbolize fertility and life. Their thin and prolonged shape is called ‘calampir’, meaning pepper. It can also be viewed as an amulet. In Uzbekistan, children, especially newborns and babies as well as pregnant women requiring their protection (for instance, during childbirth) are protected against evil forces by amulets, which contain almonds or peppers. These patterns can also imply the practical use of almond and pepper possessing medicinal properties.
Some scholars associate the origin of the ‘bodom’ pattern widely used in Uzbekistan with birds, regarding it as a representation of a pheasant, cock or peacock which have lost certain attributes in the processes of stylization. Many Central Asian peoples attributed magic qualities to these birds.
Motives associated with cult of animal have existed since ancient times and contain elements of early religions, totems, and magic and fertility cults.
For instance, various parts of birds' trunks and bones of animal served as amulets to Karakalpaks. They were believed to possess supernatural powers. Such powers were also attributed to the footprints of some animals. Thanks to cult of dogs widespread in Karakalpakstan some elements connected with this animal are used in the applied arts, including embroidery. For instance, this motive decorates tea-bags - shai-kalta and some other embroidered articles.
Horns
This ancient motive is widespread among many Turkic ethnic groups, from Siberia to Asia Minor. A ram (kuchkor) played a magic protective role. A ram's skull used to be fastened to the gates and doors or in the garden. Rams were given preference as sacrificial animals. In families where song died a newborn boy was named Kuchkor in order to keep off evil spirits and protect the baby. Khorezm residents used to keep rams in their homesteads; they believed that its horns turned away the evil eye caused it lose its evil force.
Representation of ram's horns was also a symbol of wealth and prosperity.
It is assumed that the pattern of ram's horns, especially its spiral version, symbolizes the Universe and eternal movement.
Snake
Representations of wriggling are frequently used in embroidery patterns. It can be assumed that the idea of the magic power of snakes was connected with the past cult of the snake, some elements of whose worship can be traced to this day.
The snake was a totem animal personifying good and evil. The snake cult has existed in Uzbekistan, as well as in a number of other countries, since ancient times. As Makhmud Kashgari wrote, in 11th century existed the day of the snake and the Year of the Snake. There was also a snake gem. The snake or ‘ilon’ was attributed a lot of positive functions. It was considered a protector of the house, the family, wealth, livestock, grain, water, treasures, etc. It was also respected as a protector of women and children, especially newborns. According to mythological traditions, the pattern ‘ilon izi’ (snake trail) widespread in tape embroideries also performed the function of an amulet.
Geometric patterns are considered the most ancient ones, know since Neolithic period. As a rule, simple geometric figures conveyed the most capacious notions such as the earth, water, the sun and fire.
Circle
A circle symbolized outer space and the cyclical nature of time, the sun and some of gods. A circle divided into two parts signified day and night, summer and winter, and yin and yang in Chinese mythology. Many Central Asian ethnic groups used a circle as a symbol of the Sun or, more rarely, of the Moon, worship of which was a part of people's religious conceptions since antiquity. According to popular beliefs, representation of the sun protected against the evil eye and all kinds of evil spirits. Circular motives were widely used in many kinds of applied arts, and its meaning was associated not only with the celestial bodies such as the Sun and the Moon, but also with idea of fertility.
Rhomb
Another symbol of fertility consist of two isosceles triangles. The top of them points upward, which is a symbol of heaven and a ‘yang’ sign, while the top of other one points downward, which is a symbol of the earth and ‘yin’ sign. The two opposites, the ‘yin’ and the ‘yang’, the heavenly and earthly, unite the two worlds creating a family.
Triangle
Triangle as such was considered to have a sacred power. Cases in which sayings from the Koran were usually kept used to have a triangular shape. Ethnic groups who lived in steppe associated the triangular gape of amulets with ancient magic protective conceptions of hunters' cult, and it was also an emblem used in shaman's amulets of human spiritual and vital forces.
Wavy and undulate patterns personifying streams of water are also associated with fertility cult of farmers.
A person knowledgeable of embroidery symbols can easily understand what wishes the embroiderer enciphered in her embroidery, and from what misfortunes she wanted to protect the person embroidery was intended for.
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Handbags decorated with Uzbek embroidery |
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Vegetative design |
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Circular design which looks like the Sun |
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Original bags with embroidery |
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Bags with geomtrical design |
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Natural dyes and original design |
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Star-like rhombic design |
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Abstract design |
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Bags and cushions |
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